How to Hook-up Your Sink After Granite or Quartz Installation
Over the years I have hooked up 100’s of kitchen sinks for people in Edmonton, Sherwood Park, Strathcona County, St. Albert, Leduc, Devon, Stony Plain, and Spruce Grove plus acreages around the city.
I get two types of clients. The first one says I need a plumber to come and install my faucet and hook up my sink and install my garburator. The second one says I tried to hook up my sink drain but nothing matches can you come and install everything for me.
What happens is when you get new countertops you also get a new sink. Unless that sink is exactly the same size and is a top mount instead of a bottom mount your drains will not line up.
ABS pipe is very rigid and will not move even half an inch without causing leaks.
In this article I will explain to you how you can hook up your own sink. Of course if this is something you do not want to waster your time with I can come by and hook-up your sink for you. Call 780-264-0878
When you have your new countertops installed the common practice is to install an under mount kitchen sink. The countertop company will do this for you, and they will tell you when the plumbing can be hooked up. Normally either right away or 20 to 24 hours later. Depending on the company and whether they strap the sink to secure it in place and silicone or just use silicone.
Tools you will need:
Plumbing parts you will need, in some cases you will need all of these parts and in others you won’t. As a plumber I always have extra so it is never a big deal, if you want to save time going back and forth to the hardware store you might want to buy all the parts.
Two basket strainers unless these came with the sink
2- 1 1/2 ABS 90’s
1- 1 1/2 ABS TY
1- 1 1/2 ABS dishwasher drain y, unless you don’t have a dishwasher or it drains into your garburator.
1- 1 1/2 ABS p-trap with union
1- 1 1/2 ABS 45 degree elbow
1- 1 1/2 ABS coupler
2- 1 1/2 tail pieces if these did not come with the basket strainers.
2- 1 1/2 ABS trap adapters
3 feet of ABS
Plumbers putty (depending on the basket strainers, some come with a rubber washer. Careful to buy the right putty, if you have a stainless steel sink you can use either kind of putty if you have a granite composite sink you need putty that will not stain the sink)
First thing you want to do is cut out the old plumbing. Make sure you leave about an inch of pipe coming from the stack so you can add a fitting.
Now you want to install the faucet. Follow the installation guide that came with the faucet.
Now you can install the two basket strainers, or one basket strainer and the garburator.
You may or may not need to use plumbers putty for the strainers. A lot of strainers come with a large rubber washer for the top and bottom of the strainer, while other come with a foam washer. And some others do not come with anything.
If using the putty make sure to use the right putty for the application as mentioned earlier. The sink you bought should have guidelines of the type of putty you can use.
Once the basket strainers are installed you should install the tail pieces using either the rubber washer or Teflon washer that came with the tail piece.
At this point I always put both trap adapters onto the tail pieces. Snug enough to hold in place while you measure your pipe.
Always glue the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. ABS glues creates a weld by fusing the two together, but this does not work if there is not glue on both.
Then I decide what configuration do I want to use that will make sense. Either using 1- 90 and the ty or using 2- 90’s and the ty.
Measure the trap adapter to either the 90 or the TY depending on what side you are measuring first. I like to measure from outside of fitting to outside of fitting and then add 1 1/4 inches. This will give you the right length every time. If your double sink is smaller on one side you will want to make sure the 90 and the TY will line up.
Sometimes one of these pipes will be longer than the other in this case.
Cut the two pieces of pipe and glue to the trap adapters then glue one to the TY and one to the 90. Or if you are using 2- 90’s with the TY in the middle glue the pipe to the 90’s then to the trap adapters.
If you have enough height you can place your dishwasher drain Y under the TY, otherwise you will want the dishwasher fitting between the TY and the 90.
Before installing the dishwasher drain make sure the hose will reach from the dishwasher.
Often I install the dishwasher drain between the 90 and the TY.
Cut a piece of pipe about 2 inches and glue into the dishwasher drain y, then glue into the TY making sure the drain is flowing towards the TY.
Now measure from the 90 to the dishwasher drain, or to the TY and add 1 1/4 inches. Glue the pipe to the 90, then place glue on the pipe and in the fitting of the dishwasher drain. To do this you will need both pieces turned toward you about 30 degrees. Once there is glue on each then at the same time gently twist both sides together. If you do one at a time this will not work.
Now place the p-trap on the original pipe that you cut but do not glue. Make sure the p-trap is level. Now measure from the inlet of the p-trap to the bottom of the TY fitting. If this is too far away you will need to measure from the floor to the p-trap inlet and then from the bottom of the cabinet to the TY and subtract the two. In both cases add 1 1/4 inches to get the proper length of pipe.
Glue into the TY.
Now take the p-trap off the original pipe and place onto the pipe coming off the TY, do not glue at this point and if there is glue dripping down from your last joint make sure to wipe this off.
Now line up the p-trap to the pipe coming out of the wall. Will this line be straight? If so then glue on a coupler.
If not then can you glue on a 45 and then will the line be able to go into the p-trap? If yes, glue on the 45 and make sure it is level.
If not then glue on the coupler and put a piece of pipe between the coupler and the 45 that will allow you to fit another pipe straight into the p-trap.
At this point whichever method you had to use you can now take the p-trap apart and glue the threaded 90 into the pipe coming from the stack do not get glue on the threads only glue the fitting side of the 90, make sure this is level.
Now glue the other side of the p-trap into the pipe coming down from the TY. Make sure you do not get glue on the threads or the union side of the p-trap.
Make sure you adjust the p-trap to line up with the other side while the glue is wet, or the glue will set and you will have to cut out the p-trap and put in a new one.